Hayden’s Hungry in Flavor Country

When Stacy told me I had the “new tradition” theme to work with – the choice was clear. How about an oldie but goodie that was spontaneously and mysteriously shut down only to recently re-open this fall? Well, Charleston is full of surprises and I couldn’t believe when I read that one of my favorite burger joints and the ultimate dive bar, Moe’s Crosstown, which at one point was in the middle of the ghetto (the area of upper Rutledge by Hampton Park has seen some gentrification over the years and so it is not as much of a frontier outpost as it used to be), closed down over a rumored divorce dispute. I never heard any more about what really happened, but let’s focus on the positive – they are baaaaaaack. With the same familiar faces behind the bar and delicious grub they are known for, the only obvious difference is, it’s a little bit lighter and cleaner, has new floors and doesn’t have “that smell” anymore. You know, the one you don’t smell at night but, if you were to perhaps hide from Charleston’s sunshine and make it for Sunday brunch, you would notice immediately – the mix of chicken wing oil, bourbon, and other unpleasantries I shall not name.

Moe’s is one of the first places Stacy took me when introducing me to Charleston. It is the quintessential dive that serves up consistently delicious food – and my Mom, sister, and brother, all big time foodies – make it a must when they come to town. Stacy and her buddies from college used to take the giant corner booth to the right of the front door on Sundays.  If they couldn’t wake up in time and get there by 10:30, they’d have to wait in line, not with tourists,  but rather with extremely hungover or still drunk locals.

When I found out they re-opened, I had to visit in order to answer this burning question: has the burger changed? Have they dared to mess with perfection and really what made people travel to this former “destination” that is now a neighborhood gathering place? I ordered the clutch goat cheese and poblano burger along with a Guinness to wash it down last week. The burger patty was the same great quality I was used to and together with the creamy, tangy goat cheese and roasted smoky and spicy poblano pepper, this burger was spot on. My sweet treasure arrived medium-rare and juicy.  The fries were hot, crispy, and salty.  It was a happy day.  Leaving off the lettuce and tomato, I hollowed out the top of the bun to keep all the good stuff locked in and was transported to some of my first fond memories of Charleston. They don’t make burgers like this in my hometown.

Every Tuesday they have half -price burgers and don’t miss the biscuits and gravy at brunch.

Dear Moe’s biscuits and gravy,

God bless you!

Hayden

And let’s share what really makes Moe’s special, the people! We stopped in for a beer and some anticipated entertainment last night, and a dude that looked like he’s had a hard life, really, in the friendliest manner, whipped out his hook from his jean jacket and laid it on the bar-stool next to him and said “this seat is taken.” Thankfully, there were several other spots at the bar in between an interesting cast of characters. The best part was when our hook handed pal’s girlfriend came out of the bathroom  – well –  I’ll leave that up to your imagination what she was like – but really it couldn’t have been better than the reality. Go there – eat and observe.

Thanks Moe’s for not changing what counts.

The Vibe with Lee

As we welcome 2012, it is truly amazing to see and hear all of the music that makes up the Charleston music scene.   I thought it would be interesting to take a look at the roots of music in Charleston to see where it all started, take a pause to enjoy the diversity of music we now have, and perhaps gain a better perspective of what the future may hold for Charleston’s amazing world of music.

Charleston was officially created in 1670 when King Charles II of England granted the chartered Carolina territory to eight of his loyal friends, known as the Lords Proprietors. Prior to and during this Colonial Era, Charleston was inhabited by Native Americans of the Cherokee, Creek, and other tribes. The music of these tribes is the true first music of the area. We can only imagine what their music was like, probably heavy with drumbeats and flutes. During colonization, many migrants came from England, France, Scotland, Ireland, Germany, and other countries, bringing their culturally diverse native music with them. In the late eighteenth and early nineteenth centuries, Charleston was the center for slave trade in America, with approximately 75% of all slaves entering the United States coming through our port city. The slaves, who came predominately from western Africa, also brought with them their music. So from the beginning of Charleston’s history, there was great diversity of people, cultures, and musical types.

It is evident that all American music forms come from America’s unique melting pot of cultures and music. Charleston is certainly no exception, and in fact Charleston played a unique and important role in the shaping of the American music scene. Here are a few key events in the storied history of the Charleston music scene.

In 1766, the St. Cecilia Society was formed in Charleston. It is the first musical society in North America. Only wealthy men of the area were allowed to become members. They held regular concerts in venues around town such as McCrady’s Tavern, the Exchange Building, the South Carolina Society Hall, and the South Carolina State House (now the Charleston County Courthouse). The society often had musicians from Europe performing at their concerts, so these were big formal events. After 1820, elegant balls replaced the concert series. From the beginning, dancing was highlighted at society’s concerts and at the grand balls. By the way, the all male members were allowed to bring their lady friends.

Speaking of dancing, let’s not forget about “The Charleston”. The dance was made mainstream when a tune of the same name was composed by James P. Johnson. Johnson wrote the song for a Broadway show called “Runnin’ Wild” in 1923. The dance craze went international for most of the 20′s and was associated with flappers and speakeasys. It allowed young women to flaunt their wild side in the face of straight, dry citizens and Prohibition.

Jazz was born out of African and European music, and Charleston’s black population played a key role in the creation of jazz right along with New Orleans. Here in Charleston, Reverend Daniel Jenkins established the Jenkins Orphanage in 1891. Jenkins was a former slave who wanted tohelp young, black homeless boys in the area, and did so by hiring two local musicians to teach the boys music. Instruments were donated and the first and only black instrumental group was formed in South Carolina. The group toured the United States and Europe in discarded Citadel uniforms to raise money for the orphanage, and even played at the inaugural parades of Presidents Theodore Roosevelt and William Taft. Alumni of the orphanage played with jazz greats such as Count Basie and Duke Ellington.

In 1934, George Gershwin went to Folly Beach along with DuBose Heyward, the author of Porgy. On Folly, Gershwin and Heyward worked on the opera “Porgy and Bess”. It was there on Folly that the lyrics of “Summertime” were most likely composed by Heyward. What more can I say?

Today, Charleston has a wide variety of musical genres and venues for all of us to enjoy. From Spoleto to going out to a local club or restaurant, we are lucky to be able to see many great live musicians right here in our hometown. For music in Charleston, the future is bright. So get out there this year and see and hear for yourself what our great city has to offer.

Above: Josephine Baker dancing “The Charleston”

Stacy Sips @ Bin 152

In keeping with the theme of new traditions, this month I decided to write about a place that Hayden and I frequent after dinner typically, for the always unnecessary last drink of the evening.  Bin 152 is located on King Street in the French Quarter downtown.

The first time we found the place was shortly after they opened up two years ago. We stopped in to pick up a couple of bottles of wine for a dinner party, and the Owner Patrick provided us with some great selections that our friends raved about. Since then, we have been back many, many times.  They offer wine, beer, and a simple selection of cheese and charcuterie. This is Hayden’s favorite place for charcuterie in Charleston.

What I think is so appealing to me about this place is the ambience. Every time I walk through the door I am transported back to France and want to start making out with Hayden. The décor is truly a feast for the eyes and the feeling of the place is warm. It is a husband and wife show – which is another reason to like the place. The cherry on top is that both of them are devastatingly good looking. So really, you probably won’t spend too much time looking at the décor. Hayden loves to sit at the bar and watch Fanny attend to her customers. She is perfect in the way that only a French woman can be – naturally and unintentionally seductive. I would give anything to come back as a French woman in my next life. I always hope she’s the one that serves us so I can hear her delicately reveal what lies on the plate before us in her velvety accent.

Another thing I love about the place is that every single time we go, it’s  different because of the crowd. Once we were surrounded by older couples that were all definitely original Charlestonians in all their glory: perfectly coiffed, expensively dressed, and charmingly polite. This rare sighting occurred in the 5 o’clock hour.  The last time we went it was kind of d-bag central, but that thoroughly entertains me. Who doesn’t love listening to a bunch of dudes all dressed exactly the same talk about things that don’t matter? I know I do! It’s a great spot to people watch because it’s like a box of chocolates , you never know what you’re gonna get.

Oh, and the wine is good.

Lee’s Picks

Here are some shows worth checking out in the new year:

•  Jan. 19:  G. Love and Special Sauce, Music Farm
• Jan. 20:  Yo Mama’s Big Fat Booty Band w/ Weigh Station, Pour House
• Jan. 23 & 30:  Shovels and Rope (Cary Ann Hearst), Pour House
• Jan. 26:  The Shaniqua Brown, Pour House
• Feb. 2:  Jimmy Buffet, North Charleston Coliseum
• Feb. 12:  Avett Brothers w/ Danielle Howle, North Charleston Coliseum

I finished my Park service volunteer shift at Ft. Sumter on a chilly Friday – since that’s how I roll, and was in the mood for delicious hot food and high quality but not too expensive booze to warm me up. The bartender gave us great recommendations and the HH drink specials were right on the money.  We ordered dirty martinis and full bodied reds and warmed right up.

We came in with no agenda or expectations, and decided to order slowly, savor each dish, then order the next. This was an excellent strategy and added to the experience. It worked well because the food comes out fast.  We started with the rabbit stew with dumplings – poor Bugs Bunny. It was fantastic. It basically tasted like a gourmet version of grandma’s chicken soup. Yup – tastes like chicken dontcha’ know! Next came the patatas bravas were heirloom potatoes with two dippy sauces – spicy aioli and a spicy tomato sauce. This is insanely tasty and should be ordered on every visit to Barsa. Naturally,  we were still hungry, and based on the bartender’s recommendations and some reviews we’d read, we made a few more selections. Stacy wanted something light after inhaling the patatas bravas, so she chose the beet salad which included 3 types of beets. It’s very difficult for me to get excited about a beet, but the dish was colorful, light, and she liked it.  We also ordered the steak crostini topped with a quail egg (pictured here).

This is the perfect way to avoid full-sized portions and still indulge. The beef was perfectly cooked and tender – and the fried quail egg was topped with a delicious creamy Hollandaise-esque sauce that did not mask the simple ingredients of the dish – only enhanced them. Lastly we finished with a staff fave – the garlic mushroom crostini which was buttery-rich and earthy and is served with toasted bread – pre-smothered in goat cheese. We left, full, warm, happy, and relaxed. Plus – it’s fun to say you had rabbit and a quail egg for dinner – why not? Barsa serves up simple dishes that are fun to eat and perfect to share.

Barsa is open 7 days at week at 5, serves Sunday brunch, has oyster roasts @ 3 on Sundays while oysters last, and offers great specials running during the week like half priced wine night and $4 sangria night. They have more than a couple dozen tapas offerings ranging from $3 – $15, plus dessert and paella.

This was definitely a positive discovery on the culinary front. I’ll be back soon to try the paella.

The Vibe with Lee

Local musician Tyler Boone started out playing trombone in the sixth grade.  At fifteen, his father bought him a Wal-Mart electric guitar set up.  Now, at the ripe old age of twenty-one, Tyler has become an incredible singer, songwriter, and guitarist.  He has already released two EP’s and plans on having his third out by next summer.  He will be officially dropping his new single “All of This” and an accompanying video in the near future.  Boone, related to the venerable Daniel Boone, has already made an impact in the Charleston and Columbia areas with his pop-like, bluesy rock originals.  Along with bassist John Fletcher, drummer Arthur Young, and sometimes second guitarist Dan Rainey, Tyler Boone also plays often in Myrtle Beach and Atlanta.  I asked Tyler where all of this was heading, and he told me that he plans on expanding his parameters into Greenville, SC, and Nashville, ultimately becoming a touring musician on the national circuit.  No matter what lies ahead, “I will have a career as a musician”, says Tyler.

Boone has the background and the desire to make his dreams come true.  Since giving up the trombone, he has studied jazz guitar with a private instructor for four years, gone to the University of South Carolina to study jazz and classical guitar, and now is earning his degree from the College of Charleston in Arts Management.

Danielle Howle, Charleston’s amazing singer/ songwriter and artist in residence at Awendaw Green, says, “Tyler has been instrumental with unique and viable ways of promoting music in social media and throughout the Charleston area.”  Tyler has been present at some of the Swamp Sessions, the “Off the Grid” Sustainable Energy Recording Project headed by Howle and Eddie White.  I can’t help but believe that this has helped him mature by leaps and bounds as a writer and musician.

Tyler Boone describes his music as popsy, bluesy rock.  He started out as a metal head early in his guitar playing days, and he at times plays with a hard edge.  He can sing and rip it up on guitar, but what really impresses is how he easily flows from one genre to another.  His songs often tell a meaningful story, and to me, the story is told with folk, jazz, country, blues, and rock as a backdrop.  He reminds me a little of a blend of John Mayer, John Hyatt, and John Prine.

While performing, Tyler feeds off of the energy of the crowd’s dancing, yelling, and enjoyment of his music.  He says, “Music can help people through tough times.  It is a universal language that evokes emotion and is a powerful way to speak to people and express yourself.”

*photo -  Charleston Scene – “Papa” John Fletcher, Tyler Boone, Arthur Young “IV”, Dan Rainey

You can find out more about Tyler and listen to his music athttp://www.tylerboonemusic.com and you can see him live @:

• Dec. 10-New Brooklyn Tavern, West Columbia
• Dec. 17-Windjammer, IOP
• Jan. 14-Village Tavern, Mt. P
• Jan. 24-Truphonic Studio, Charleston
• Feb. 11-Fresh Brewed Coffee, Myrtle Beach
• Feb. 22-Awendaw Green Barn Jam

Stacy Sips @ Bottles

On a fateful Sunday, after a delicious brunch @ Crave in Mt. Pleasant with HJP ” homeys” David and Lia, recent first time homebuyers, and after showing a few houses…Hayden and I actually had an hour to spend together, alone, on a weekend! This never happens.  I said “you know, I wanna check out that new place, Bottles (locally owned version of Total Wine), in Mt. Pleasant but I don’t want to go with you cause we’ll spend a fortune…” Naturally,  Hayden talked me into it and after help from two of the best salespeople EVER ( I’d like to steal one and make them as passionate about real estate as they are about booze), they directed us to the value section – for “professionals” only-  and we made out around $60 with 3 bottles of wine and a 6 pack.

Upon discovering this golden opportunity to hang out together, we decided that this November afternoon would be enjoyed on our lovely porch, in 80 degree weather, with a bottle of wine, cheese, and charcuterie and we could hold hands and watch the sun set. The last part didn’t happen, but the wine, weather, and company were all delightful.

The staff recommended two reds from the value section, which were both easy drinking, but the star of the show was the white they recommended.  The bottle was L-Agape Vin D’ Alsace, a French White, for $15.99. Hayden said Hemingway used to drink Alsacian whites – must’ve been while he was rehydrating during the day. When they suggested this Pinot Blanc, I thought ” naw….I’m still a novice when it comes to white wine really as I am only in my 2nd year of drinking it (excluding bubbles naturally).” In an effort to try to avoid offending their well developed palates, I conceded and tried it, and that was totally the right move. Hayden and I both LOVED this French wine. Viva La France (oh stop it you silly haters)!

Bottles has a tasting bar and offers a variety of tastings every week. They sell beer, wine, the hard stuff, snacks, and the cherry on top is they hired employees with AN AMAZING ATTITUDE. On Sunday they don’t sell liquor in the name of Jesus but they still sell wine and beer, and I don’t have to haul myself to West Ash to the Total Wine – yayayayay!!!!!!!!! Just sayin…

Hayden asked me to add that they have a humidor too with a great cigar selection,  offer an impressive variety of micro-brews, and have a layout is easy to navigate and not overwhelming.

So head over there to load up for the Holidays, say “whassup” to my girl Laura, who can put together beautiful gift baskets for clients, and take your party home this Holiday Season!

Hayden’s Hungry in Flavor Country

The setting is a sunny Sunday Brunch – we decide to meet two of our favorite couples (shout out to Pat, Weezah, Megs, & Stevie) on King Street to try the newest Indigo Road addition to the Charleston culinary scene. We asked our buds to suggest restaurants they wanted to try, and there was one common denominator: Jeremiah Bacon’s new baby,The Macintosh. We made a reservation for noon on a Sunday and the moment we walked through the door – bam! The atmosphere was vibrant and lively. After saying hello to several old friends we had not seen in a while, the kind you want to run into, we arrived at the “Chef’s Table,” where we get to observe the kitchen in action. I was a bit skeptical at first, as my primary choice with any locale on King, is the front row, a “window seat” in order to people watch. However this table gave us an entirely different perspective. The kitchen was a beehive of activity, festooned with colorful Le Creuset cookware and attentive, interested, and careful staff.

The service was fantastic from the start. Our waiter Joe, who was on point, on time, and patient, was happy to answer all questions and guide us through the menu. The cocktail menu was unavoidably magnetic. I started with a Mac-Hattan which was a bit of a right hook on a Sunday. It was an enjoyable, not too sweet version of the old school cocktail. Other members of our party enjoyed beers, mimosas, and the Bloody Mary bar, where you are provided with a glass half full of vodka to dress as you please.

On to the meat of the matter – the choice for me was super-duper easy. Bacon came from Carolina’s, then Oak Steakhouse, so the burger was an obvious choice. The 8 ounce house ground patty was top quality and melted in my mouth. This is what I have come to expect from the top caliber of restaurants in Charleston. The bun was perfectly cooked, and the twist here was that the thick slabs of bacon were placed directly on top of the burger so the bacony goodness seeps into the patty. Only then is the cheese placed on top to melt. The thin cut truffle parmesan fries were just as I like them: crispy, thin, and full of truffle flavor. I ordered a side of gravy, a clutch choice – when I dip, you dip, we dip. Yum.

Stacy and some of the girls struggled to find something on the menu that wasn’t too heavy – but everyone loved their dishes which included the chorizo with swiss chard and “the most perfectly poached eggs ever,” over polenta, omelets, scallops, really this was a strong variety of selections and all plates were cleaned. We were fully fueled to burn off all extra calories at HoM for our fave Sunday Funday activity – pong.

The Vibe with Lee

 Elise Testone juggles many things; she performs with several different bands, performs solo, teaches voice to twenty-five students, works on bettering her piano and drum skills, is learning cello, and yes, learning to juggle, literally. Good brain exercise, she says. According to Elise, another good brain exercise was learning all of Amy Winehouse’s “Back to Black” album in less than three weeks, and then performing it live with a nine-piece band that was basically thrown together. I was at this performance at the Pour House, and I think it was perhaps better thanseeing Winehouse herself.

Elise’s slightly raspy and always soulful voice is a pleasure to hear, no matter if she is performing solo, with an accompanying percussionist or guitarist, with Justin Smith and the Folk Hop Band, Slanguage, or the Freeloaders. By the way, Elise Testone and the Freeloaders are the winner of the Charleston City Paper Music Awards’ Funk/Soul/R&B Artist of the Year. She can do it all!

“I was made for this”, says Elise. With a name like Testone, and a father who has been buying and rehabbing jukeboxes for years, I couldn’t agree more. Elise says she was greatly influenced by her father who “would blast Motown, jazz, rock and roll, and Queen” to test the jukeboxes. Other major influences are Ella Fitzgerald, Sam Cooke, James Brown, Michael Jackson, and Janis Joplin. “I am honored to perform and entertain for so many people. I feel very calm (on stage). I remind myself that many people, when they see someone on stage, wish that they could do that too. So I don’t need to be scared, I need to be strong.”

I ask Elise about her writing and about her future. Testone says, “I have been writing music for the last two years. I was singing, but wasn’t giving it my all. Imade some adjustments, started writing. My demeanor was different and it drew people to me. The energy was different. I said I should know how to play guitar so I can communicate with my band. I had ideas and I couldn’t convey them. One song came to me in its completeness and I just wrote it down. Every one is different. Letting go and being intuitive; sometimes I don’t even know what I am saying, and months later it will have meaning.”

“I would like to do as much as I can to get myself in front of as many people as I can. To share what I have for a little while, just go really strong and back off and live a nice life. I would like to go on tour next year. I gave myself a year to get in shape, learn guitar, polish myself as a musician, get better socially, get on the road and write songs. Affect as many people as I can in a positive way. I want it to keep progressing and then I kind of want to chill out when I’m 40 or 45.

Music is my freedom ’cause it’s keeping me sane. It is the best way I can expressmyself and connect with other people. I’d be lost without it. It means everything to me.”

“I think there is tons of great music in Charleston. A revolution is going on. I believe there is a movement; the perfect storm. Americana is becoming cool. Robert Plant and the Band of Joy, Amos Lee, Amy Winehouse, Adele, Avett Brothers, Allison Krause, Mumford and Sons, Jessie J; I sing just like them. I am making my mark here.”

For more about Elise, please visit www.elisetestone.com or visit her Facebook Page

You can see Elise live this month:

•  Nov. 3-Light the Night cancer walk, Elise sings the National Anthem, 7 PM, Mt. Pleasant, Waterfront Park
• Nov. 4-Loggerheads, Folly Beach, w/ the Freeloaders, 10 PM
• Nov. 9-Home Team Sullivan’s Island, 9-12 PM, solo
• Nov. 11-Windjammer, IOP-11/11/11 Festival, w/ the Freeloaders
• Nov. 12-Jailbreak 2, w/ the Freeloaders, Old Exchange Building, downtown
• Nov. 18-Pour House, The James Brown Dance Party w/Soul Power, 2 sets ofJames Brown classics, 9 PM

Stacy Sips @ The Belmont

For the review of my next watering hole, the Belmont Lounge on King Street, I had a pep-talk with Hayden prior to the visit – “one drink, okay – that’s it” because this trip was work related really, for my HCH review, and I wasn’t in the mood to tie one on. Oh silly me. That is just an impossible outcome for Team Jennings, as the moment we stepped through the door into the swanky, vintage comfort of the Belmont, my fave Bartender Joey spots Hayden and yells out “Hemingway Daiquiri?” at which time Hayden and I realize we have now been sucked into the charm and character of the place. Oops. We have a seat at the bar, and I order what I came to review, the Bells of Jalisco, one of my favorite cocktails in Charleston. The cocktail boasts two different kinds of tequila, house made “jalapeño honey”, freshly squeezed lime juice, and completed with a pickled green bean for garnish. This drink is sooooo delicious. The jalapeño honey provides the perfect amount of heat and the pickled green bean balances out the sweetness of the cocktail. The menu is categorized by liquor, so you get to pick your poison first. I like that. Halfway through my Bells, I scanned the menu and truly it was love at first sight – I saw her – the 212.

How could I have not had this drink before I asked the bartenders? Often times, I finish my night at the Belmont, I just tell Joey to express himself in his “liquor lab” with something that is not too sweet and he always delivers. He tells me he’s made it for me before, which is quite possible unfortunately. Okay so back to the 212 which I am discussing with Mickey the Owner. He explains to me that the name represents both the area code where the cocktail was invented in NYC, and also, the components of the cocktail: 2 ounces of tequila, 1 ounce of aperol, and two ounces of grapefruit juice. Yes, please! So the 212 stole the show in the end really cause she’s prettier than the Bells of Jalisco. They are both wonderful refreshments to enjoy in a cushy, romantic atmosphere with old black and white movies playing on the back wall. The Belmont serves beer, wine, and snacks, including charcuterie and cheeses, as well as a banana and nutella “pop tart” for dessert I’ve heard rave reviews about. I however am lured by the boozy cocktails, charismatic bartenders, and enchanting ambience.

I’ve heard it can get crowded late night, but I’m in bed by then. You’ll have to go in person to peruse the menu, because they’re so awesome, they don’t even have a website.

Lee’s Picks

Here are some shows worth checking out in November:

“When we become more fully aware that our success is due in large measure to the loyalty, helpfulness, and encouragement we have received from others, our desire grows to pass on similar gifts. Gratitude spurs us on to prove ourselves worthy of what others have done for us. The spirit of gratitude is a powerful energizer.”

- Wilferd A. Peterson